boo

Also, this time I was smart enough to not take handwritten notes in my native language, but write them in English and on the computer from the get-go. So here they are! If you find any mistakes or don't understand something, let me know.

Monokuro Boo pattern

Skill level: Intermediate

Materials:

- One skein of black and one skein of white yarn for the pigs.
- (Optional) Oddments of yarn in light gray, light pink, red, yellow and dark green for the props.
- A hook appropriate to the weight of the yarn. I personally used fingering weight yarn and a 2.0 mm hook.
- Yarn needle.
- Polyfill.

Note: When switching colors, the last loop you pull through the stitch before the switch already has to be in the new color.

Piggies

Body
R1: With white or black yarn, make 4 sc into a ring.
R2: 3 sc in each st around (12)
R3: sc in next st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st) 3 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st (20)
R4: sc in next 2 st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st) 3 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st (28)
R5: sc in next 3 st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st) 3 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st (36)
R6: sc in next 4 st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 8 st) 3 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st (44)
R7: sc in next 5 st, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st) 3 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st (48)
R8-R10: Work even (48)
R11: sc in next 6 st, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 11 st) 3 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st (52)
R12-R19: Work even (52)
R20: sc in next 7 st, (sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 11 st) 3 times, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st (48)
R21-R23: Work even (48)
R24: sc in next 2 st. Move stitch marker. sc in next 9 st. (To form the leg, continue crocheting in the round over only the last 6 stitches. After one round of six stitches, fasten off. Leave a fairly long tail for sewing. Reattach the yarn in the first of the skipped stitches. sc in next 12 st.) 3 times. Form the last leg in the same way as the others, reattach yarn, sc in next 3 st (24)

If R24 is unclear, check out this photo tutorial by Nedrian: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=302982.msg3488811#msg3488811

R25: sc in next 2 st, (sc inc in the last stitch before the leg, sc inc in the first stitch after the leg, sc in next 4 st) 3 times, sc inc in the last stitch before the leg, sc inc in the first stitch after the leg, sc in next 2 st (32)
R26: sc in next 3 st, (sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 6 st) 3 times, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st (28)
R27: sc in next 2 st, (sc next 3 st tog, sc in next 4 st) 3 times, sc next 3 st tog, sc in next 2 st (20) Sew up the hole at the end of each leg, as well as the tiny hole at the base of each leg. Stuff body firmly.
R28: sc in next st, (sc next 3 st tog, sc in next 2 st) 3 times, sc next 3 st tog, sc in next 1 st (12)
R29: (sc next 3 st tog) 4 times (4) Fasten off, sew up the hole and weave in the end.

Snout
R1: With white yarn, ch 5, turn, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, 3 sc, ch 1, turn (4)
R2: 4 sc, don't turn at the end of the row, instead, 2 sc in the side, 4 ch along the bottom of the starting chain,  2 sc in the side (12) Switch to black yarn.
R3: In the back loops only, ss across (12) Fasten off. Embroider 2 black dots for the nostrils. Sew the snout to the body with black yarn. If your piggie is white, embroider all around the snout using back stitches, so that the snout appears to have a clean, crisp black outline. Embroider the eyes with black if the piggie is white, or with white if the piggie is black.

Ears
R1: With the same color yarn as the body, make 4 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (6)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (8)
R4: sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around (10). Fasten off. Make another ear. Sew ears to the two top front corners of the body.

Tail
R1: With the same color yarn as the body, ch 15, turn, ss in 2nd ch from the hook, ss across (14) Fasten off and sew to the body.

Big hearts
Make hearts in black, white, light gray or light pink.

First lobe:
R1: Make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18)
R4: Work even (18). Fasten off. Leave a tail of a few inches for sewing.

Second lobe:
Start in the same way as the first lobe, but don't fasten off. Using the yarn tail on the first lobe, whip stitch the first four stitches of R4 of both lobes together.
R5:Continue to crochet around both lobes now, creating 30 stitches. If you've done this correctly, your stitch marker should be right in the middle between the lobes.
R6-R7: Work even (30)
R8: sc in next 7 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 13 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 6 st (28)
R9: sc in next 6 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 12 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 6 st (26)
R10: sc in next 5 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 9 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 4 st (22)
R11: sc in next 4 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 7 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 3 st (18) Stuff firmly.
R12: sc in next 2 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 3 times, sc in next 3 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 3 times, sc in next st (12) Stuff some more.
R13: sc in next st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 2 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next st (8)
R13: sc in next st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next st (6) Fasten off. Carefully stuff the tip, then sew up the hole and weave in the end.

Small hearts
Make hearts in black, white, light gray or light pink.

First lobe:
R1: Make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: Work even (12). Fasten off. Leave a tail of a few inches for sewing.

Second lobe:
Start in the same way as the first lobe, but don't fasten off. Using the yarn tail on the first lobe, whip stitch the first three stitches of R3 of both lobes together.
R4:Continue to crochet around both lobes now, creating 20 stitches. If you've done this correctly, your stitch marker should be right in the middle between the lobes.
R5: Work even (20)
R6: sc in next 5 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 8 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st (18)
R7: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st (16)
R8: sc in next 3 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 4 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next st (12) Stuff firmly.
R9: sc in next 2 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 2 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times (8)
R10: sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 st tog, around (6) Fasten off. Carefully stuff the tip, then sew up the hole and weave in the end.

Apple

R1: With red yarn, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18)
R4: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (24)
R5: sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around (30)
R6-R8: Work even (30)
R9: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 8 st, around (27)
R10: Work even (27)
R11: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 7 st, around (24)
R12: Work even (24)
R13: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 2 st, around (18) Stuff semi-firmly.
R14: sc next 2 tog, sc in next st, around (12)
R15: sc next 2 tog, around (6). Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Pass the yarn from the bottom middle to the top middle, draw tightly. Then pass the yarn back to the bottom, draw tightly. Repeat to make sure the shaping holds. Tie off and weave in the end.

Stem and leaf:
 
With dark green, ch 5, turn, sc in 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in next st, dc in next st, sc in next st, ch 4, turn, ss in 2nd ch from the hook, ss in next 2 st. Fasten off, sew to the top of the apple.

Pear

R1: With yellow yarn, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around (15)
R4-R5: Work even (15)
R6: sc inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, around (18)
R7: Work even (18)
R8: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (24)
R9: sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, around (27)
R10: Work even (27)
R11: sc inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, around (30)
R12-R14: Work even (30)
R15: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 3 st, around (24)
R16: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 2 st, around (18) Stuff semi-firmly.
R17: sc next 2 tog, sc in next st, around (12)
R18: sc next 2 tog, around (6). Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Pass the yarn from the bottom middle to the top middle, draw tightly. Then pass the yarn back to the bottom, draw tightly. Repeat to make sure the shaping holds. Tie off and weave in the end.

Make the stem and leaf in the same way as with the apple.

Read more: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=174226;sa=showTopics;start=0#ixzz2yVNRd8Lw

thỏ

They're so ickle and tiny! Bunnies always bring out my inner 3 year old. 



I express color through my amigurumi... no really!  


And if you'd like to make some silly bunnies as well, here's the pattern. Let me know if you find any mistakes!

Linguine bunnybuns... From outer space!

Materials:

- One skein of yarn in the body color of your choice.
- An oddment of white yarn for the tail.
- Embroidery floss for the nose.
- Beads for the eyes.
- A hook appropriate to the weight of the yarn. I personally used fingering weight yarn and a 2 mm hook, which resulted in an 8.5 inch bunny.
- Yarn needle.
- Embroidery needle.
- Polyfill.

The ears, head, torso and legs are all crocheted as one continuous piece, starting at the tip of the first ear.

First ear

R1: Using the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (9)
R3-R7: Work even (9)
R8: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st (8) Stuff the tip of the ear.
R9-R10: Work even (8)
R11: sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st (7)
R12-R13: Work even (7) Stuff some more. The rest of the ear will be so thin, it doesn't need stuffing.
R14: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next st (6)
R15-R18: Work even (6) Fasten off.

Second ear and body

Start like the first bunny ear, but don't fasten off after R18. 

R19: ch 3, sc around the 6 st of the first ear, sc into each of the 3 ch made at the beginning of the round. Continue to sc around the 6 st of the second ear, then sc along the bottom of the 3 ch made at the beginning of the round. Move stitch marker. (18)
R20-R25: Work even (18)
R26: sc in next 3 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st (20)
R27: Work even (20)
R28: sc in next 4 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 9 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st (22) This is a good time to create the face.
R29: sc in next 5 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st (24)
R30: sc in next 6 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 11 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st (26)
R31: sc in next 6 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 12 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 6 st (28)
R32: sc in next 7 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 13 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 6 st (30)
R33: Work even (30) Stuff the head firmly.
R34: sc in next 7 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 14 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (32)
R35: Work even (32)
R36: sc in next 8 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 15 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (34)
R37: Work even (34)
R38: sc in next 9 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 16 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (36)
R39-R40: Work even (36)
R41: sc in next 9 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 16 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st (34)
R42-R43: Work even (34)
R44: sc in next 9 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 15 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 6 st (32)
R45: Work even (32) Start stuffing the body.
R46: sc in next 16 st, move stitch marker. Skip next 22 st. Continue to work in the round over the last 10 st, to form the first leg (10)
R47: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st (9)
R48-R49: Work even (9)
R50: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st (8)
R51-R55: Work even (8) Start stuffing the thigh.
R56: sc in next 5 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (9)
R57: Work even (9) 
R58: sc in next st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (10)
R59: sc in next 7 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (11)
R60: sc in next 3 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (12) Stuff more.
R61: sc in next 9 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (13)
R62: sc in next 3 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 9 st (14)
R63: sc in next 10 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st (15)
R64: Work even (15)
R65: sc in next 4 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 10 st (16)
R66-R70: Work even (16) Stuff the lower leg firmly.
R71: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 2 st, around (12) Make sure the whole leg is properly stuffed before moving on to the final round.
R72: sc next 2 st tog, around (6) Fasten off, sew up the remaining hole and weave in the end.

Reattach yarn in the 23rd stitch of R45. Make sure to leave a long tail of yarn that you can use later to sew up the crotch opening.

R46: sc in next 10 st. Continue to work in the round over these 10 st, to form the second leg (10)
R47: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st (9)
R48-R49: Work even (9)
R50: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st (8)
R51-R55: Work even (8) Start stuffing the thigh.
R56: sc in next 5 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (9)
R57: Work even (9) 
R58: sc in next st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (10)
R59: sc in next 7 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (11)
R60: sc in next 3 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (12) Stuff more.
R61: sc in next 9 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (13)
R62: sc in next 3 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 9 st (14)
R63: sc in next 10 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st (15)
R64: Work even (15)
R65: sc in next 4 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 10 st (16)
R66-R70: Work even (16) Stuff the lower leg firmly.
R71: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 2 st, around (12) Make sure the whole leg is properly stuffed before moving on to the final round.
R72: sc next 2 st tog, around (6) Fasten off, sew up the remaining hole and weave in the end.

Using the crotch opening, continue stuffing the torso until it's semi-firm. Sew up the hole to finish off the body.

Arms

Start like the first ear, but fasten off after R16. Sew the arms to the sides of the body.

Tail

R1: With white, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (9) Fasten off and sew to the body.

Read more: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=174226;sa=showTopics;start=0#ixzz2yVNF1iqz

đoll

Anyways, I came up with these two silly dolls! Quote from: Wayuki on April 30, 2009 07:19:03 AM So, I finally got off my lazy butt and typed out the patterns for these in detail.  This is just for the dolls, btw. If you also want to make the bears, you can find them here: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=298179.msg3399589#msg3399589 Linguine dollydolls The fun part about these dolls is that you can really decorate them in any way you like. So, rather than telling you exactly how I made mine, I'm going to give you a description of the basic doll pattern first. After that, I'll go into the specific elements that I used on my dolls. If you want to use those specific instructions, read them carefully before starting to on the basic doll. I hope to see your creative interpretations of the pattern!  Materials: - Yarn in various colors of your choice. - Embroidery floss or yarn for the face. - Sewing thread that matches the color of the yarn for the hair. - A hook appropriate to the weight of the yarn. I personally used fingering weight yarn and a 2.0 mm hook, which resulted in a 8.5 inch doll. - Yarn needle. - Polyfill. Note: When switching colors, the last loop you pull through the stitch before the switch already has to be in the new color. Basic doll instructions Head and body R1: Using the skin color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring. R2: sc inc in next st, around (12) R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18) R4: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (24) R5: sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around (30) R6: Work even (30) R7: sc inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, around (36) R8-R12: Work even (36) R13: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 4 st, around (30) R14: Work even (30) R15: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 3 st, around (24) R16: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 2 st, around (18) Stuff the head firmly. Change to the body color of your choice. R17: Work even (18) R18: sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, around (21) R19-R25: Work even (21) R26: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 5 st, around (18) Stuff firmly. R27: sc next 2 tog, sc in next st, around (12) Stuff more. R28: sc next 2 tog, around (6) Fasten off and weave in the end. Embroider a face according to your own taste, or look at the pictures for inspiration. Legs R1: Using the leg color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring. R2: sc inc in next st, around (12) R3-R5: Work even (12) R6: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 10 st (11) R7: Work even (11) R8: sc in next 5 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next 4 st (10) R9: Work even (10) R10: sc in next 3 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next 5 st (9) R11: Work even (9) R12: sc in next 7 st, sc next 2 tog ( R13: Work even ( R14: sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next 4 st (7) R15: Work even (7) Stuff the lower leg firmly at the bottom, and more lightly towards the top. The rest of the leg will be so thin, it doesn't need stuffing. R16: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next st (6) R17-R44: Work even (6). Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Make another leg, then sew both to the body. Arms R1: Using the skin color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring. R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around ( R3-R5: Work even ( R6: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 6 st (7) R7: Work even (7) If neccessary, put a small amount of stuffing in the hand. The rest of the arm will be so thin, it doesn't need stuffing. R8: sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 tog, sc in next 3 st (6) R9-R22: Work even (6) Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail for sewing. Make another arm, then sew both to the body. Specific instructions A-line mini dress Make the head like in the basic pattern until it's time to change to the body color. Change to the body color, but don't clip the skin color yet, just leave it hanging for now. Continue as follows: R18: In the front loops only: sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, around (21) You've now laid down the base round for the dress. Don't clip the dress color, but pick up the skin color again. Crochet along the inside now, in the back loops that you left in the previous round, without increasing, making 18 stitches. This way you'll have two layers of crochet on top of each other, namely a skin layer, and a dress layer. Continue crocheting the skin layer as follows: R19-R20: Work even (18) R21: sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, around (21) R22-R24: Work even (21) Now change color for the panties. This is important, otherwise your doll will be very indecent under that little mini dress.  R25: Work even (21) R26: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 5 st, around (18) Stuff firmly. R27: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next st, around (12). Stuff more. R28: sc next 2 st tog, around (6) Fasten off and weave in the end. Now go back to where you left off the dress layer. Continue as follows: R19: Work even (21) R20: sc inc in next st, sc in next 6 st, around (24) R21 Work even (24) R22: sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, around (27) R23 Work even (27) R24: sc inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, around (30) R25 Work even (30) R26: sc inc in next st, sc in next 9 st, around (33) R27 Work even (33) R28: sc inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, around (36) R29: sc in next 2 st, ss in next 3 st. Fasten off and weave in the end. Ballerina skirt Finish the head and body according to the basic pattern. After that, the skirt is crocheted directly onto the body, around the stitches of R24. R1: sc in every st around (21) R2: sc inc in next st, around (42) R3: sc inc in next st, around (84) R4: ss in next 2 st. Fasten off and weave in the end. If you think crocheting around the body is too fiddly, you could also make the skirt as a separate piece and sew it on. In that case, start with a foundation chain of 21 and join with a slip stitch. After that, continue with the skirt pattern as instructed. Stripy thigh-high stockings Make the legs according to the basic pattern, but change colors along the way. For the first three rounds, use stripe color A. For the next two rounds, use stripe color B. Continue alternating between the stripe colors every two rounds. However, don't just make your color changes at the beginning of the round all the time, because then the color changes will start twisting around the leg. Instead, make the color changes so that they form a straight line. After a total of 15 stripes, change to skin color and finish off the leg. When sewing on the legs, make sure that the color changes are along the inside of the leg. This way, they will be less apparent. Knee-high boots with stripy thigh-high stockings Make the legs according to the basic pattern, but change colors along the way. For the first three rounds, use whatever color you want the sole of the boot to be. For the next 12 rounds, use the boot color. For the next two rounds, use stripe color A. For the next two rounds, use stripe color B. Continue alternating between the stripe colors every two rounds. However, don't just make your color changes at the beginning of the round all the time, because then the color changes will start twisting around the leg. Instead, make the color changes so that they form a straight line. After a total of 7 stripes, change to skin color and finish off the leg. When sewing on the legs, make sure that the color changes are along the inside of the leg. This way, they will be less apparent. Arms with short sleeves Crochet the arms according to the basic pattern, but make the last two rounds in the sleeve color. Arms with arm warmers Make the arms according to the basic patterns, but change colors along the way. For the first three rounds, use skin color. For the next two rounds, use stripe color A. For the next two rounds, use stripe color B. Continue alternating between the stripe colors every two rounds. However, don't just make your color changes at the beginning of the round all the time, because then the color changes will start twisting around the arm. Instead, make the color changes so that they form a straight line. After a total of 5 stripes, change to skin color and finish off the arm. When sewing on the arms, make sure that the color changes are along the bottom of the arm. This way, they will be less apparent. Afro hair The afro hairdo consists of two parts: the front part which has corn rows, and the back part which is puffy. To make the corn rows, simply make long stitches with black yarn, spaced apart slightly. For the puffy part, we'll sew on small loops of yarn with sewing thread. To start, attach the yarn to the top front of the head, straight off the skein. Weave in the short end. Now make a small loop around your index finger, and sew it to the head. Two stitches should be enough for that: one around the yarn, and one right through. Continue to make loops like that, in a spiral following the hair line all around the head. When making loops around the side and bottom of the head, make the loops around your pinkie finger instead. This way, you'll subtly shape the hair. When you get back to the top, continue making another spiral of hair along the previous one, just close enough the provide coverage. It took me three spirals to cover the whole head, but it may depend on the yarn how much you'll need. After you have full coverage, cut the yarn off the skein and weave in the end. To make a little hair band, chain 38 and join with a slip stitch. Fasten off. You could weave in the ends, or simply tie them into a little bow to finish it off. Pigtail hair Take the yarn for the hair and wrap it around a book, about 50 times. Take the loops off the book and cut through the loops once. Now you'll have 50 hairs of equal lenght. Take a hair, fold it lenghtwise to find the middle. Then, use sewing thread in a color that matches the hair to sew it to the top middle on the head, starting at the hair line. Two stitches should be enough for that: one around the yarn, and one right through. Keep sewing on hairs, going in a straight line down to the bottom middle of the head. Now that the hair is secured at the parting, pull the hair into two pig tails. After that, sew the pig tails tightly to the side of the head. Tie bows around the pig tails to finish it off.

12  CROCHET / Amigurumi: Completed Projects / Some Angry Angel inspiration *patterns added on page 2* on: March 25, 2009 04:03:20 AM I saw Angry Angel's bazaar topic recently and the tiny teddies she made just made me go squee! And then I went on a mad rampage of tiny crochet thingies myself, starting with bears. These were based off Angry Angel's bear pattern, but I made a couple of changes. The heads are much bigger, I gave them bobbles for tails and I made them 2-toned. I could post my version of the pattern if Angry Angel is fine with that. After that, I made a Longcat and Tacgnol following the same principle. And finally, I made a bunch of little chickies. These are also crocheted as one piece, so they're insanely fast to do. Quote from: Wayuki on March 25, 2009 12:34:31 PM I asked Angry Angel if I could post my adaption of her tiny teddy pattern, and she said yes, so here it is.   I hope it's comprehensible, English isn't my first language. If you have any questions about the pattern or suggestions on how to describe it clearer, let me know. Beary Bears Based on Angry Angel's tiny teddy pattern: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=289504.msg3296032#msg3296032 Adapted by Wayuki. Materials: - Oddments of yarn in 3 colors: one for the main body, one for the ears and paws, and one for the facial features. - A hook appropriate to the weight of the yarn. I personally used fingering weight yarn and a 2.0 mm hook. - Yarn needle. - A small amount of polyfill. Note: When switching colors, the last loop you pull through the stitch before the switch already has to be in the new color. R1: With the main body color, make 6sc into a ring. R2: sc inc in every st around (12st) R3: Switch to the ear color, 3 dc bobble st in the 1st st. Switch to the main body color again. Continue, increasing in the 2nd, 4th and 6th st. Switch to the ear color again, 3 dc bobble st in the 7th st. Switch back to the body color, increasing in the 8th, 10th and 12th st (18st) R4-R6: Work even (18st) R7: [sc next 2 sc tog, sc in next sc] around (12st). This is a good time to embroider on the face, because you can still reach the back to tie it off easily. Set the eyes low and wide for a cutesy look. R8: [sc next 2 sc tog, sc in next sc] around (8st). R9: sc inc in the 1st st, 3 sc, sc inc in the 5th st, 3sc (10st) R10: 2 sc, switch to paw color, 4 dc popcorn st in the 3rd st. Switch to main body color, 3 sc. Switch to paw color, 4 dc popcorn st in the 7th st. Switch to main body color,  3 sc (10st) R11: Work even (10st) R12: 7 sc, sc inc in 8th st, 2sc (11st) R13: 1 sc, sc inc in 2st st, 8sc, 3 dc bobble st in the 11th st to make the tail (12st) R14: 4 sc, switch to paw color, 4 dc popcorn st in the 5th st. Switch to main body color, 3 sc. Switch to paw color, 4 dc popcorn st in the 9th st, 3 sc (12st). Stuff in all the yarn ends from the color switches, then stuff the remainder of the body with polyfill. R15: 3 sc. After that, decrease til you're left with 6 st. Tie off, sew hole shut and pull yarn up into body to make sure the bottom is flat. Note: you can easily make a cat out of your beary by replacing the ears and tail. Replace the ears with 3 dc popcorn stitches instead of bobble stitches. Replace the bobble tail with: 1 sc, ch 11, turn, skip first ch from the hook, 5 ss, 4 sc, sc back into original st. You could make the cat version into Longcat by working straight for a bit after the increase in the 13th round. I used 10 additional rounds,

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